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When assembling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might expect renowned high-end establishments. However, nestled high among these food titans is a simple salonu located in a distant part of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. This honour has made the proprietors totally surprised.

“I am totally surprised,” states a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small place earning such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its former charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all about the food, and this establishment certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is likely to resonate outside its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic triumph.